CGD23

I see the current collection no. 11, presented under the new brand JAN SOCIÉTÉ, as the culmination of Jan’s previous work. And simultaneously as a shift in the development of principles on which he has been basing his work since his studies at the Tomas Bata University in Zlín. Jan has always made relevant and contemporary fashion, but he has also worked to foster a community. First meeting him ten years ago, I noticed his ability to inspire, motivate and support young people around him.

The formation of the JAN SOCIÉTÉ brand, where Jan fulfills the role of team leader and collaborates with other design talents of his generation, is in this sense totally logical and organic. But it’s not just a personal openness, good communication and an interest in others which got him to where he is – it took a lot of work along the way. One must have a strong personal vision and sense of identity, and come up with ideas and approaches for people to identify with. Plus an indispensable system for creating, producing, and marketing to build on. 

In the 11th collection he revisits his collaboration with jeweler Ondřej Stára and adds a new crossover with glassmaker Lukáš Novák. The perfection of his tailoring grow out of Jan’s creative teamwork with the young craft virtuoso Boris Král. As usual, Jan’s collection reflects the local craft and industrial legacy (Prestige, Preciosa), but also brings to the table his own original style. Apart from his signature tailoring features, this year he added his own hand-painted symbols rendered into prints by graphic designer Martin Tomáš. Also worth noting is his use of new materials, such as thermoreactive nylon, which changes color on contact with the human body, and aluminum fabric.

The aspects of Jan’s work which I have been lauding may seem to be a given. But very few people in the Czech context are in fact able to execute them with such a degree of excellence. Especially in the sphere of men’s unisex streetwear, which Jan is very much involved in, he currently has no rival. The conceptual framing of his collections deftly works with global and local contexts, his conceptions are contemporary and reflect important issues both at home and abroad. His 11th collection’s engagement with nomad, spiritual and consumer aesthetics is a great example. And what’s more, it’s not only about having an interesting and relevant concept, but also a fine wearable product: from custom-tailored suits, handcrafted bags and limited-edition sneaker drops, to casual t-shirts, sweatshirts and ball caps.

In many ways, Jan is a pioneer in Czech fashion. But from the outside, it always seems as if he manages it all with lightness and grace. That is usually the case when there is support from outside structures and when one can walk paths trodden by previous generations. But in our case, there is not yet much to lean on. I believe Jan deserves the award not only for the fashion design he creates but also for searching for new and more contemporary ways of performing the work of a fashion designer. And for the way he has been inspiring and motivating his generation, and others besides.

Veronika Ruppert